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Comments by MichaelNelson
There are two different logically coherent ways of resolving this. I remember a quote from <i>Bobby Fischer Teaches Chess</i>: 'The object of the gamee is to capture the enemy King. The capture is never actually carried out.' This is what checkmate is about. So we have:
1. If checkmate and and occupying both goal sqaures are equal priority win conditions, then you can occupy the second goal square and win even in a checkmated position because the win occurs before the King capture would have, were it carried out. (So under this interpretation, there is no checkmate in this position.)
2. If Checkmate is the primary win condition and occupying the goal squares is a secondary win conditon, then it is illegal to occupy the second goal square when checkmated--the game is over and you have lost. It is also illegal to occupy the second goal square when in check (unless the move coincidentally removes the attack on the King).
Personally I prefer #1, but #2 is easier to program in Zillions.
I eliminated the suicide rule because after playtesting it both ways I liked the feel of the game better without it. I feel suicide is less necessary in Fugue (and for that matter Rococo) than in Ultima becase the Cannon Pawn is such an excellent Immobilizer-killer--it can capture the Immobilizer by using an immobilized piece as a mount. The Archer can also pick off an Immobilizer from a distance if there is any open line--the immobilized pieces spot. Another reason for this and also for having Immobilzers immune to each other and Swappers unable to swap with each other is that I wanted to increase the third-thing aspect of Fugue: to intentionally be different from both Ultima and Rococo. Making the Withdrawer immune to the Immobilizer would certainly make it very valuble for its special ability but losing value rapidly after thew enemy Immobilizer is gone, suddenly regaing value if the enemy protes a Pawn to Immobilizer.
Three critieria come to mind to distinguish an Ultima variant from a Chess variant with some Ultima elements (this might also be a useful thing to index): 1. More capturing move types than non-capturing move types. 2. Majority of capturing move types are non-replacement. 3. At least one piece with an important special power (e.g. Immobilizer). #3 is not a strict criteria but is indicative in borderline cases. Chess On A Longer Board . . . is clearly a Chess variant with Ultima elements by these criteria.
As well the the Alfaerie graphics shown, the ZRF also includes Roberto Lavieri's beautiful Galactic graphics, including some piece graphics and a board drawn especially for Fugue--Thanks, Roberto!
I will be building the webpage for Fugue over the next few days. The final ZRF is ready if anyone wants it before then. (I'm already sending updates to R. Laveri and M. Howe.)
Had a very pretty Z vs Z game today. WHite had King, Pawn, Archer, nad Shield against King and Long Leaper. King and Pawn huddled toghether on the first rank while the Shield protected the Archer while it hunted down the enemy King.
After some internet research, I've chosen Roberto's suggestion of Fugue as the name of the new game. While the fugue as a musical form originated in the Baroque period, it continued through the Rococo period and into the Classical period. Seems fine for a Rococo/Ultima blend. Classical Music's 'holy trinity' (J.S Bach, Mozart, Beethoven) have all used the fugue form.
Roberto, Thank you for your kind comments. With regard to endgames, the Shield is helpful to the weak side but can be beaten. King and Immobilzer vs. King and Shield is a forced win--either the King and Shield get immoilized (loss by stalemate), or the King gets immobilized and the enemy King picks off the Shield--also a loss by stalemate. Against all opposing forces a King and Shield which must stay next to each other are in extreme danger of losing by triple repetiton. The general technique for King and X (where X is a piece that would win vs. a lone King) vs. King and Shield is to set up a positon where the Shield is captured by X and the lone King can't recapture. More analysis and playing experience is needed to see how frequently this can be forced. King, X, and Y vs. King and Shield should pretty much always be a forced win. Of course. 'kill the Shield' combinations will be as much a mainstay of the middlegame as 'kill the Immobilzer' combinations are.
I will send the current ZRF to Roberto and anyone else interested tonight. Some rules clarifications: 1. A Pushme-Pullyu which withdraws from a piece must capture that piece; it may not capture another piece by advance, it may not move to a square where it would effect a capture by advance. 2. The Shield does not protect pieces from immobilization. 3. A shield does not protect adjacent friendly pieces from swapping, but it does protect against the Swapper's mutual annihilation capture. 4. An immobilzed Shield still protects adjacent friendly pieces form capture. 5. An immobilized Archer may not shoot, though an immobilized piece may spot for the archer. The spotting rule makes a strong Archer but not as strong as an unlimited range archer. Z vs. Z and Z vs. me testing indicate that it is playable. Notice that it gets weaker in the endgame with fewer pieces available to spot for it. This type of archer creates some interesting defensive situations. The attcker's Archer moves in close to pick off some pawns/pieces and the defender's Archer gets in position three squares or so away where it can fire at the attacker (because it has a spot) and the attacker can't fire back. The Long Leaper is weaker than in Ultima with only a single leap and no ring squares to prevent pieces from hiding on the edge. But it has a good abitlity to push pieces to the edge where their mobility is reduced. Playtesting of the Immobilizers don't immobilize each other rule seems to indicate that the immobilizers don't become excessively stronger than in Rococo. What does happen is that Immobilizer play become more fluid and tactical. The stonger Archers make a good counterweight to the stronger Immobilizers--the pieces it is freezing can act as spots for the Archer ot kill it from accross the board! I really love the Shield: while it obviously adds a strong defense, it is quite useful for attack as well by preventing counterattacks. This technique can be particualrly fruitful to support an attack on the Immobilizer.
I've been experimenting with a Rococo/Ultima variant of my own. It uses the 8x8 board and the following pieces from Rococo: Long Leaper Swapper Immobilizer King Cannon Pawn The Advancer and Withdrawer are replaced by a single Pushme-Pullyu and an Archer is added. I have also added an FIDE Queen and a new piece: the Shield-any piece adjacent to a friendly Shield is immune form capture (the Shield itself is capturable). I've also made some rule changes. Immobilizers do not immobilize each other. Swappers cannot swap with each other (but can capture by mutual destruction). Only one capture per turn is allowed--the Long Leaper can make only one leap, and a Pushme-Pullyu can't both Advance and Withdraw in the same turn. The Archer is made more powerful. It can rifle-capture orthogonally or diagonally any distance as long as some friendly piece is 1 or 2 (unobstructed) squares away orthogally or diagonally from the target. When the target is 1 or 2 squares away from the Archer, no second piece is needed. An immobilized piece can spot for the Archer, just as an immobilized piece can act as a mount for a Cannon Pawn. I'm experimenting with the best setup and I need a catchy name. Playtesting so far indicated that this is a quite interesting game. Comments?
Some guesses at Rococo piece 'beginner values': Immobilizer=4 Long Leaper=3 Advancer=3 Swapper=2 Cameleon=2 Withdrawer=1 Cannon Pawn=1 Archer=2 Pushme-Pullyu=5 Some scary exotics: LL/PP (can caputure as either or both)=9 Archer/Advancer=6 Cameleon/Swapper=5 Rococo With Different Armies, anyone?
I've playtested Roccoco with Archers and find it quite playable. The way an Archer can pick off Pawns is a strength, not a weakness. As in Ultima and standard Rococo, the Withdrawer is quite weak. Why not replace the Advancer with the even stronger Pushme-Pullyu and add a new piece type?
Larry's suggestion also improves play and the code is elegant. I'm going to do some testing and see which approach seems to do better. I have a more elegant macro for Peter's method which will allow the final move to be made: (define King-win ( (verify (in-zone? promotion-zone)) (if (in-zone? promotion-zone a1) White-throne ; dummy position with a White King else Black-throne ; dummy position with a Black King ) add ))
The Zillions implementation handles checkmate/stalemate positions fairly well, but often overlooks fairly obvious 'run for the border' (moving the King to the enemy eighth rank) wins. Any suggestions how to improve its play in this area?
You had one of Abbott's later books. The original game did not have the distance limitations, this is the change he proposed that no one else liked.
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Yesterday I tried several varieties of Backward Chess adapted from these rules and none seemed playable. When Peter published Feebback Chess, I tried a backward version of it. (Would that be Feebfore Chess?) I have been unable to find a way to make the pawns workable--it always seems too hard to break up pawn formations.
There are two advantages provided by castling: 1. The King is safer near the corner behind a wall of pawns. 2. Brings the Rook towards the center where it can get into the action more easily. King and Rook move normally on subequent turns. There is no such move as 'uncastle', but some people use this term to describe a series of Rook and King moves that restore the position of Rook and King before castling.
Peter, Sorry about that typo--I know the correct name of your fine game, but my fingers don't work so well sometimes. As for no draws by agreement, the rest of the rules by design make it impossible for a game played to a conclusion to be drawn. My feeling is that the players cannot agree on an impossible result, any more than two players of FIDE Chess are able to agree to split the point 3/4 - 1/4. My reason for a drawless game is personal one: playtesting and analysis indicate draws would be extremely rare using checkmate and King to the eighth rank as win conditions. I simply dislike the idea of a draw rate of say 1/2%. The fifty move rule is arbitrary, but will never be invoked by skilled players: the player with the won position can win quicker than that.
The comments about the pieces in Supremo Superchess have me thinking about cannon pieces generally and how they might be used in CV's. Rook+Pao (never mind Queen+Leo) are much too powerful for an otherwise FIDE-like game. But imagine these power pieces up against say the Reaper or Combine from Tripinch Chess. Sounds more interesting? Also consider divergent cannon pieces: Rook+Vao and Bishop+Pao. For these I would use the Korean cannon moves--the RpB must leap to move diagonally as well as to capture. These should be interesting pieces in a variant--starting off at about Cardinal value, declining to little more than Rook and Bishop in the endgame. Thes would be interesting with other pieces that gain power in the endgame. Any thoughts about a cannon Nightrider? (It needs a big board!)
The web page states that the Chameleon can check the King from an adjacent square and this is correct per Abbott's rules for Ultima in 'Abbott's New Card Games'. He states that a Chameleon may capture a piece if it mimics it's move in direction and distance. So a pawn can only be captured by a Rook move and a King can only be checked from an adjacent square. Leaping a Long Leaper does not invalidate the mimic of another piece. This seems illogical at first glance but really is logical. The idea is that making a capture of one piece does not prevent the capture of others. If the Chameleon had made a Rook move away from a Withdrawer that sandwiched a Pawn, both captures would be allowed. Abbott believed that leaping a Long Leaper should not preclude other captures.
I would assume that promotion on ranks 2 and 15 is optional, while the promotion on 1 and 16 is mandatory. Very occasionally it would be advantageous not to promote a pawn (say to avoid stalemate).
I like Charles' thinking on this game also. Whatever the inventor's intent, I like the idea of the third thru sixth ranks all being water so that you can't get to the enemy back ranks without using rafts. Moves from one land square to another must be legal, as otherwise the King is immobile. It should be legal to give or avoid check, mate, or stalemate by moving a raft.
I think that requiring Black to capture White's unpromoted Pawns only would make a better game. By analogy with other games where capture rather than checkmate is the object, it would be legal for White to promote his last unpromoted pawn but would result in Black winning the game.
Any kind of multi-variant tournament or single-variant tournament would be of interest to me. More than one could feasibly be in play at once. Game courrier tends to encourage fast play, so this opens more options. For scoring, there is no way to determine a fair score differential for Black. FIDE is the only variant where a deecnt guess of the size of White's advantage is available, and even that no doubt varies by rating. Not all variants even favor the player who moves first--my own Pocket Mutation Chess slightly favors Black under the current rules.
King and two Knights cannot force mate but can give mate if the opponent makes a mistake--this endgame is not an automatic draw.
I believe that mate with King, Bishop and Knight vs lone King can take up to 49 moves, which is the reason for the 50-move rule. IIRC, computer studies of more complex positions have shown mates requiring over 200 moves--which might or might not transgress the fifty move rule, as any capture or pawn move resets the clock. But in any case, the line has to be drawn somewhere and some wins (if arbitrary length games are allowed) will be draws under an x-move rule. I believe the 50-move limit should be increased for a larger board, but reduced for more powerful pieces (for the board size). The technical way would be to calculate the average crowded board mobitity of each piece (using Betza's method), then add up these values to get an approximation of the power on the board. Compare the ratio of this power to the number of squares to the ratio of the FIDE army (about 64, depending on the magic number) to 64 squares = about 1. The formula is movelimit = 50 times board size divided by total army mobility. For FIDE Chess this is 50 * 64 / 64 = 50. To examples for your duodecimal game: 1. Total army mobility = 90 50 * 144 / 90 = 80 2. Total army mobility = 200 50 * 144 / 200 = 36 You can probably guesstimate accurately enough without actually doing the calculations.
The only requirement for the Rook in castling is that it has never moved. It may be under attack or cross an attacked square. The logic of this is that a Rook can be attacked but this is not check. The restrictions on the King are due to the fact that an attack on the King is check and moving into or through check is illegal.
I hav submitted the corrections to the editors. It is a good change in that reducing White's opening advantage is always a good thing. However, the original rules do not give White a win. Black can maintain equality by symmetrical play. The early loss of one Rook on each side is a bit of a flaw, though. In the revised rules, White is safe from the Nightrider attack if he opens Pawn d2-d4 or Pawn e2-e4. This covers one fork point and he has the tempo to cover the other if Black mutates a Rook to Nightrider. Since these are reasonable opening moves anyway, diffusing the Nightrider threat costs White little or nothing--this makes for a very balanced game.
I am putting the finishing touches on a new game I'm calling 'Queenmate' (I am open to suggestions for catchier names).<p>
The Queen is royal and may not move across check. (like the Queen in <A href='http://www.chessvariants.com/large.dir/british.html'>British Chess</a>. The Queen is allowed to castle under the same conditions as the King.<p>
The King remains partly royal--any move leaving the player's King subject to capture is illegal.<p>
Checkmate is defined as 'the player in turn has no legal move, and his Queen is in check'. Stalemate is defined as 'the player in turn has no legal move as his Queen is not in check.' <p>
Some consequences of these rules:
<p>
Attacking the King so it can't escape is stalemate (unless the Queen is also attacked).<br>
Forking the King and Queen is checkmate unless the forking piece can be captured.<br>
Pinning the Queen to the King is checkmate if the pinning piece cannot be captured and no interposition is possible.<br>
Pinning the King to the Queen is stalemate if the pinning piece cannot be captured and no interposition is possible.<p>
The King is an interesting study in piece values: the better your game is, the more valuable it is. If you are winning, it is extremely valuble and if you are losing it has a high negative value.<p>
A variant of this game would be to borrow the stalemate rule from Chaturanga: the stalemated player wins.
Antoine raises a good point. Consider it done. Rule 2 is amended to read: 'If a player's pocket is empty, the player may remove any of his pieces (except his King) from the board and put it in his pocket as a move. White may not use the pocket for the first move.' I will also submit a corrected ZRF when I am able.
Antother fine Separate Realms variant. This should be a very close match with the Separate Realms II army, with more raw power but poorer developement. If it's a little too strong, using a Slip Queen instead of the SwR Chancellor should even it up.
For Mike's Camel Chess II, the promotion of the Eaglet on the eighth rank is immediate (does not use a separate move) but is optional -- it may remain an Eaglet if desired. If this option is chosen, the Eaglet must move off off the eighth rank and then back on in order to promote.
A particular mutation that is often worth doing early is to pocket a Rook and mutate to Nightrider. This has technical merit and is also an excellent bit of psychological warfare--your opponent can't help but wonder 'What is he going to do to me with that Nightrider?'
I've submitted a revised ZRF which adds another variant: Mike's Camel Chess II. This allows Eaglets to promote on the eighth rank (as well as by flanking) but prohibits promotion to Tower of Hanoi.
Roberto's points are well taken. I'm not even sure King, Diagonal Bypasser, and three Eaglets can do the job. I't fairly easy for the lone King to escape by stalemate. The Eaglet is nearly usless in the endgame, By comparison, King, Diagonal Bypasser, and FIDE Pawn is an easy win by promotion. The strategic lesson is to get rid of your Eaglets early--promote as many as possible, force exchanges with enemy pices (it is especilly useful to use Eaglets to kill Tower fragments). Philodor was so right -- the Pawn is the soul of Chess. Any game with FIDE pawns will fell chesslike to a degree, no matter how far out the outher pieces are. A change to Berolina pawns leaves the Bishops and Rooks feeling role reversed, but still feels fairly chesslike. But the Eaglet is something very diffeernt indeed with its promotion rule (An Eaglet which promotes on the eighth rank would have a more chesslike feel). Promote early and often!
I've submitted a ZRF for Mike's Camel Chess--a variant with the enhanced Diagonal Bypasser and more limited Tower of Hanoi as defined in my previous comments. It seems to be considerably more playable, but preserves the essential flavor of Lùotuoqí. The biggest difference between Lùotuoqí and FIDE Chess (IMO) is not the Tower, the Bypasser, or the Cube but the Eaglet promotion rule--promotion is possible early and will normally occur on the player's own side of the board.
I'm further experimenting with giving the Diagonal Bypasser the ability to make a one square non-capturing orthogonal move. This addition makes the piece more powerful by removing colorbinding. It also elimnates an oddity in Eaglet promotion--under the offical rules, you can't promote to DB without the use of an enemy piece, since two DB's can't be oriented correctly.
I've been playtesting this and I find two flaws: The Diagonal Bypasser is too weak on a board of this size--since it must move at least three squares to capture, it has few opportunities. The Tower of Hanoi is much too powerful. Potentially you can make eight single stones which equals 8 commoners (non-royal Kings). This is on the high side of 16 Betza atoms (Queen=5, Amazonrider=8) just considering that the commoner is the strongest 2-atom piece. Then there must be an unknown addition for the value of the right to recombine. The endgame is entirely dominated by the tower. I've been experimenting with two revisions to address these issues: The Diagonal Bypasser can capture on any square orthogonally adjectent to its path, even though the square is also adjacent to the starting or ending square. DBb2-d4 can now capture b3, c2, c4, or d3 (but not a2, b1, d5, or e4). Thius makes it a more useful in the middlegame and fairly stong in the endgame. Te Tower's maximum move is reduced to one less than its height: a full tower can move 7 squares, a three-stone tower can move 2, a one-stone tower is immobile. You cannot split off a single stone, but can leave a single stone behind when splitting. The potential value of the tower is more like 8 atoms and considerable plus values, still dominating, but its dominance is much less absolute. Preliminary playtesting indicates that these two rules make for a more balanced game. Both Eaglet promotion and The Cube seem quite workable. Early promotion, (especially to Mules) is quite easy unless the enemy works to prevent it, but the opponent can adopt a symmetric strategy and stand pretty well. With players who use the cube sparingly (only for a large material/positional gain or to prevent a large material/positional loss), The Cube shifts the advantage to Black--making it about the same size as White's advantage in FIDE, I'd guess. If players use the cube liberally (to get small gains or prevent small losses), the game is nearer even. I suspect that a player using the cube sparingly will beat an equally skilled opponent using the cube more liberally unless the conservative player's standard's are too high (for example only to give or prevent immediate mate).
Plays poorly--but what an excellent example of Zillions programming that it can play this complex and difficult game legally.
Actually, the change to rule 1 is the one I feel least strongly about--you make a good case and your way is simpler. My contribution is not great enough to have a variant named for me--I'd be comfortable with a thank you on the game page, if you insist. On the no checkmate by Pawn drops, you may well be right also -- but this may be less necessary with no drops in zone 4. Personally, the one Shogi rule I have never liked or understood is why it is legal to check the King with a Pawn drop, but not to mate. To me, prohibiting both or neither would seem more logical.
I had never been happy with the 150-move limit, but I just wasn't able to write an an adequate 50-move rule in time for the contest deadline. In fact, I have several me vs Z and Z vs Z games in my library that were in doubt on move 150 but won by move 170, where a draw would have been declared even though progress was being made. By the way, games of this length are extraordinary--the most recent involved me making a very long comeback from being within a hairbreath of lost at move 75. On the other hand, I have seen games that were pretty dea by move 100 or so that the new rule will stop before move 150. The new 50-move rule is complex, but is an accurate adaptation of the FIDE 50-move rule to the radically different conditions of Wizard's War. In actaul play, the irreplacablity of a piece will be more obvious than it seems from reading the rule.
Jared, I would suggest eliminating rules 2, 6 and 7 and rephrasing rule 4 to conform to the elimination of rule 6. The bare King rule is unnecessary--if the player has only his King and nothing in hand he can be checkmated quite easily. I suggest rewriting rule 1 to allow drops in the fourth zone with these provisions: 1. You may not promote as you drop (same as Shogi). 2. To promote, you must move the piece you dropped in the fourth zone within the fourth zone (contrary to Shogi, where you can promote a piece whose move starts in the promotion zone and ends outside it). I would also consider eliminating the pawn drop restrictions--definately the file restriction and possibly the checkmate restriction as well.
Ivan Derzhanski is almost certainly right. Ancient peoples would think of a move of three squares as including the starting square but more modern people with a better understanding of zero would think of a move of two squares not including the starting square. There may be areas of confusion in ancient sources espaecially compilations from multiple sources--this might be the real origin of the rule in Tamerlane that the Bishop cannot move one square, for example. Comparable examples in other fields: Julius Ceasar often sent coded messages using the alphahbetic substituion A=D, B=E, C=F, etc. He and his contempories described this as advancing four letters, we would say three. According to the New Testament, Jesus died on Friday, was in the tomb Saturday, and rose from the dead Sunday--expressed in the creeds as 'On the third day he rose from the dead.' No doubt we would say 'On the second day . . .' if we hadn't heard it so many times the other way.
A really fine contest--Tony Quintanilla and I have been doing this informally among ourselves. I'm looking forward to more games with more designers!
Timothy, Congratulations on a well deserved win. There were so many fine games that any number of them might have been chosen, but the judges certainly made a very reasonable choice. Outback gets gets better and better as you have more exposure to it. You know it will be a fun game by reading the rules--play a few times and you will know it is also a very fine game. You have created a real gem.
I judged this game in my group during the preliminaries and have I higher opinion of the game than the author does. A refreshing change of pace for the Shogi player. I think the design as submitted is a good one--in fact I voted Ryu Shogi above the eventual winner. The only design decision I would change if it were up to me is to eliminate the rule that a promoted piece reverts to non-promoted if it returns to the first zone--it makes for a stronger defense if you have the option of anchoring your weak pieces with a strong piece. All in all, a fine design.
Roberto, Maxima is a very fine game. With respect to the value of pieces, I wouldn't even attempt to calculate the values in an Ultima Variant--the multiplicity of capture types means that this will be far harder than the value of Chess pieces. But I believe it is doable in principle. The reason I'm interested in the value of Chess pieces is for game design. I want theoretical values so I can have an idea what an unfamiliar piece should be worth. I particularly have an interest in Chess With Different Armies and most especially the 'build your own army' variants. The ideal value won't and cannot be perfect, but it should be a decent starting place--practical values will always be empirical, and will vary by game context. For example, play a lot of Chess using Berolina Pawns--do the Bishop and Rook have the same values relative to each other as in FIDE Chess? Zillions values are about useless for pieces that are even slighty unorthodox--even the Bishop is overvalued compared to the Knight. That's why Zillions programmers have techniques to inflate piece values.
A most pleasing blend of Western Chess, Xiangqi and Shogi. The piece set is most entertianing and seems to work well together. The Ogyo is more valuable in this game than it would be in a FIDE-like variant: it has the same horizontal King interdiction power as the Rook, and vertical interdiction isn't needed--the King facing rule provides it.
More thoughts on augmented Knights: Part of the advantage of the augmented Knights over the Rook may be a Zillions artifact--Knights are strongest in the opening, Rooks in the endgame. Zillions sometimes has trouble getting to an endgame, where human masters would. If my conjecture is correct, setting Zillions to deeper plies would show the gap reducing or increasing much more slowly than normal for repeating a Zillions calc at higher plies. I suspect your results are not anomalous among the augmented Knights. The NF has yet a third advantage--it cannot be driven from an outpost square by an undefended pawn! All other augmented Knights can (as can the Rook, but outposts are more important for short range pieces). This factor is also almost certainly a part of why the Ferz is stonger than the Wazir. I would be curious to see what the numbers are for the various augmented Knights vs Rook and each other if Berolina Pawn are used. I predict NW the strongest but with a smaller gap, and Rook significantly better vs augmented Knights (easier development as well as can't be attacked by an undefended pawn).
Robert, That is puzzling. Are there value gaps between the other augmented Knights or do they test out fairly equal? Value of NF vs. R I could argue either way as their moves are so unrelated. I would think that the NF would be the strongest augmented Knight (even though less mobile than NW) as it masks two Knight weaknesses: colorswithching and inability to move a single square. NW masks one step inablility but isn't as forward as NF. NA and ND mask colorswitching and give a a lot of coverage to the 2-square distance. These are very likely quite well mathced: NA more forward, ND more mobile. I really never had though of colorswitching as a major disadvantage, I have even doubted it is worth considering. On the other hand one of the nice things about Rooks is that they are neither colorbound nor colorswitching.
Perhaps Ralph's conjecture that mobility has a non-linear (yet fairly close to linear) relationship to value is the real starting place for these calculations, rather than forking per se. What kind of non linear equation would we be looking at if we assume without proof that that the Spielmann values (N=B=3.0 pawns, R=4.5 pawns, Q=8.5 pawns) are correct?
With regard to the WcR vs the WmR, I wonder if the tendency at least in the endgame is for the capture power to be more important offensively and the non-capturing movement to be more important defensively. I also wonder if unbalnced pieces in general tend to belong to the category of 'it's worth x, but you really should trade it before the endgame.' In the late endgame, an R4 might be superior to both WcR and WmR by a perceptible margin.
Peter brings up an interseting observation about Rook values approximating empty board mobility. Yet the short rooks seem a little weak by this standard, just as the usual crowded board mobility makes long Rooks too weak. The Rook's special advantages over the Bishop and Knight (interdiction, can-mate) are endgame advantages--so empty board mobility or at least a higher than normal magic number might be the way to quantify the value of different length Rooks among themselves. An R7 is much superior to an R3 in both can-mate and interdiction. And Rook disadvantages (lack of forwardness, hard to develop) apply regardless of length so they would cancel out in this comparison.
The is an ideal test bed for the WcR vs WmR question and also the question of asymmetric move and capture vs symmetric move and capture. Run three sets of CWDA games: 1. Remarkable Rookies vs. Remarkable Rookies with WcR in the corner 2. Remarkable Rookies vs. Remarkable Rookies with WmR in the corner 3. Remarkable Rookies with WcR vs Remarkable Rookies with WmR If I can find the time, I will run some Zillions games over the weekend. In thoery, the short Rook used in the standard Rookies is equal to the WcR and the WmR. I predict that testing will show WmR the weakest and the other two quite close, but the only result that would really surprise me is for the WmR to beat the WcR consistently.
I would not call the magic number arbitrary--it is empirical, it cannot be deduced from the theory, but I think the concept has an excellent logical basis. For piece values we want to have sometihing that allows for the fact that the board is never empty, that takes endgame values into account, but is weighted towards opening and middlegame values. So let's take a weighted average of the board emptiness at the opening (32/64) and the board emptiness at its most extreme in the endgame (62/64). Let's weight them in a 3:2 ratio to bias the average toward the opening. This gives a value of .6875 -- right in the middle of the range of magic number values that Ralph uses! The 'correct' value can only be determined by extensive testing and it might well be .67 or .70 -- but I am quite certain it is not .59 or .75! A way to verify this would be to do some value calculations for a board with a different piece density that FIDE chess, then see if the calculated magic number for that game yields relative mobility that make sense (as verified by playtesting). Sticking to a 64 square board, imagine a game with 12 pieces per side. This game has a magic number of .7625 -- I predict that the Bishop will be worth substantially more than the Knight in this game. Now a game on 64 squares with 20 pieces per side. This game's magic number is .6125 -- I predict the Knight is stronger than the Bishop in this game.
It's wonderful to hear from the Master on this topic. I really mentioned the geometric move length becuse you mentioned it in the article--the key point was the comparison of mobility ratios to value ratios and the Rook discrepancy. We need about 10 orders of magitude above excellent for Ralph's work on the value of Chess pieces--I would nominate it as the greatest contribution to Chess Variants by a single person. I am convinced that the capture power and the move power are not equal, but that the difference will only be discenable when extreme. An example--compare the Black Ghost (can move to any empty square, can't capture) to a piece that cannot move except to capture, but can capture anywhere on the board (except the King, for playability)--clearly the Ghost is weaker, though its average mobility is higher. I feel that WcR will be perceptibly stronger than WmR but I could be wrong. I suspect the effect is non-linear with a cutoff point where we don't need to worry about this factor. I also think that the disrepancy will be less than the discrepancy between the actual value of the WcR and the average of the Wazir and Rook values. This discrepancy may be non-linear as well.
A very pretty game, more playable than absorbtion. It gives me an idea a variant: When one piece captures another, any DNA the captured piece has that the capturer does not have is added to the capturerpiece, but any DNA that the pieces have in common is removed form the capturer: Rook captures Bishop = Queen Rook captures Queen = Bishop Rook captures Amazon = Cardinal Cardinal captures Queen = Marshall Knight captures Knight = nothing! (suicide capture) I wonder how this would play?
Robert With regard to the multi-move mobiltiy calculation, I think we can ignore levelling effects at the M2 etc level as well--levelling effect can't be calculated on a per piece basis at all. For example, in FIDE Chess, the levelling effect brings the queen's value down--but add a Queen to Betza's Tripunch Chess and the levelling effect brings its value up! I think the correct way to allow for the levelling effect is to calculate all piece values ignoring it, then correct each piece value by an equation which compares the uncorrected value to the per piece average (or perhaps weighed average) value of the opponent's army. So the practical value of a piece depends on what game it is in.
I wonder what thoughts Robert and others have about multi-move mobility and its influence on value. For simplicity of figures, let's calculate empty-board mobility starting on a center square. In one or two moves, a Rook can reach all 64 squares, while a bishop reach 32. On the other hand, a Wazir can reach 13 and a Ferz can also reach 13. Are crowded-board, averaged over all starting square numbers for two-move mobility of use for piece values? Would it be necessary to also calculate three-move, etc mobility? Another question from the numbers above--does this indicate that the Bishop is affected more detrimentally by colorboundness than the Ferz is?
The pawn rule voted on is that Eaglets do not promote--so no more than 8 stones can be on the board.
Robert, I think you are on the right track. I think the Bishop needs a reduction due to colorboundness, and 10% would make it equal to the Knight. The Amazon seems a little high. Perhaps this is because the Amazon's awesome forking power is a bit harder to use--for example, forking the enemy King and defended Queen is terrific if you fork with a Knight, but useless if you fork with an Amazon. I think that it is neccessary to take the forwardness of mobility and forking power into account--indisputably, a piece that moves forward as a Bishop and backwards as a Rook (fBbR) is stronger than the opposite case (fRbB). Nevertheless, your numbers aren't bad at all as is. They seem to have decent predictive value for 'normal' pieces ( a 'normal' piece moves the same way as it captures, and its move pattern is unchanged by a rotation of 90 degrees of any multiple). Various types of divergent pieces will need corrections--I would assume that a WcR (moves as Wazir, captures as Rook) is stonger than a WmR (capatures as Wazir, moves as Rook) and that both are a bit weaker than the average of the Wazir value and the Rook value.
Maybe this is really 'The Rook problem' Consider the following mobitity values and their ratios for the following atomic movement pieces ard their corresponding riders (Calucated using a magic number of .7, rounded): Piece Simple Piece Rider Ratio Move Length ----- ------------ ----- ----- ----------- W 3.50 8.10 2.31 1.00 F 3.06 5.93 1.94 1.41 D 3.00 4.89 1.63 2.00 N 5.25 7.96 1.52 2.24 A 2.25 3.07 1.37 2.83 H 2.50 3.20 1.28 3.00 L 4.38 5.43 1.24 3.16 J 3.75 4.45 1.19 3.61 G 1.56 1.74 1.11 4.24 Notice that there is a clear inverse relationship between the geometric move length and the ratio of the mobility of a rider to the mobility of its corresponding simple piece, but the relationship is not linear. Now let's look at the mobility ratios: For the F, the ratio is close to 2 and the Bishop is twice as valuable as the Ferz. For N, the ratio is close to 1.5 and the Nightrider is one and a half times as valuable as the Knight. The ratios for D and A are about 1 2/3 and 1 1/3 rather than the 1 3/4 and 1 1/4 Ralph suggested, but the discrepency is still within reasonble bounds. The values for H, L, J and G and completely untested, but seem reasonable. So it looks like the ratio of the value of a rider to the value of its corresponding simple piece is very similar to the ratio of the mobility of the rider to the mobility of its corrsponding simple piece. Value ratio=mobiility ratio (between two pieces with the same move type). But all of this breaks down for the Rook/Wazir: playtesting amply demonstrates that the value ratio three, but the mobility ratio is only 2.3! Clearly this suggests that the Rook has an advantage over short Rooks that the Bishop does not have over short Bishops, that the NN does not have over the N2, etc. My guess is that the special advantage is King interdiction--the ability of a Rook on the seventh rank (for example), to prevent the enemy King from leaving the eighth rank. A W6 is almost as good as a Rook, but while a W3 can perform interdiction, it needs to get closer to the King, while the R and W6 can stay further away. Can mate is also no doubt a factor. Consider the mobility ratio of the Rook to the Knight--1.54, a fine approximation of the value ratio of 1.5 (per Spielman/Betza). If we make a reasonably-sized deduction from the Bishop to account for colorboundness (say 10%), its adjusted mobility is slightly larger than the Knight's and its value ratios with the Knight and Rook come out right. But the Rook's mobitilty must be adjusted downward to account for its poor forwardness (ruining the numbers) unless the addition for interdiction/can mate is about equal to this deduction. Clearly such an adjustment for poor forwardness must be in order, since by mobility the colorbound Ferz is a bit weaker than the non-colorbound Wazir, but in practice the opposite is true. This suggests that the Wazir loses more value from its poor forwardness than the Ferz loses from colorboundness, and the Rook would lose more than the Bishop but for compensating advantages. Is this a first step toward quantifying adjustment factors so that we can take crowded board mobility as the basis of value and adjust it to get a good idea of the value of a new piece? Any of you mathematicians care to take up the challenge?
Three steps to promote on an empty board is about right for the Platypus--it nearly as hard to promote in this game as a pawn in FIDE Chess (which is five steps on an empty board), and the promotion to Rook by a piece worth considerably more than a Pawn is less significant than promoting a Pawn to Queen. I believe that changing the Platypus' move would detract from the balnce of the game, rather than improve it.
I have been experimenting with a Chessgi-type variant of Pocket Mutatution. Add the following simple rule: When a player captures an enemy piece, if the player's pocket is empty, the enemy piece becomes a friendly piece (no mutation) and is put in to the player's pocket; if the player's pocket is not empty, the captured piece is removed from the game. This rule also makes an intriguing variant when added to FIDE Chess.
The author's 'The setup in my diagram is not a mistake' asserts that the diagram correctly reflects his design--that he really intended the asymetircal setup, rather than the diagram-maker messing up. Whether this is a good design decision is an interesting question. I suspect Ralph had a good reason for his choice and I would be interested in hearing it.
I'm so sorry to see this--but with my own life as busy as it is, I fully understand. Hans, thank you so very much for everything you've done in creating, maintaining, and improving the CV pages during your long tenure. And thank you for leaving the editor-in-chief position is such capable hands.
Consider a rule a that royal leaper may not leap over a square attacked by the opponent. The Knight is deemed to move orthogonally first, then diagonally. So if a Royal Knight is on c3 and d3 is empty and attacked by the enemy or contains a friendly piece that is attacked by the enemy, the Royal Knight may not move to e2 or e4. If d3 contains an enemy piece defended by the enemy, the Royal Knight MAY move to e2 or e4.
I would like to make clear that my comments about games in the 84 Spaces Contest are absolutely in no way intended as crticism of the judges. Having judged Group A with Glenn Overby and Michael Howe, I am well aware of how difficult the judging task is and how diligently the judges do their work. No doubt some will disagree with our decisions as well. Given the overall high quality of the entries, not all of the worthy games can make the finals. I am also quite sure that many of the decisions were very close ones. It's been a pleasure to be part of this contest, both as an entrant and a judge.
Another idea suggests itself: make the pieces entirely immobile on the next move after a capture, but the piecces are self-readying: for example, White captures a Knight with his Queen on move 28. The Queen may not move or capture on move 29, but the Queen may move or capture normally on move 30 or later. If this game were played with thematic Kings, this could allow a King to administer mate--if Black's King just made a capture, White's King could move next to it and this is check and mate since Black's King can't move and White's king can't be captured (if it could, the checking move was illegal). Capturing with a bare King would mean stalemate, as would capturing with your only mobile piece, if the opponet's move did not release any other or oyur pieces.
I have already given this game a well-earned 'Excellent'. I think Tony is leading the way to some new, exiting Hex Chess games. The key is dropping the attempt to translate square geometry into hex geometry--Heroes is designed to play well in hex from the beginning. The email game I have going with Tony is in the endgame--the game is holding up very well in terms of play value. I believe this game is a serious contender to win the 84 Spaces Contest. I would be astonished if it didn't at least finish high in the rankings. I can't help but wonder if dropping the attempt to translate 2D geometry into 3D would lead to some fine 3D games.
I am more than a little surprized that this game was not chosen as a finalist in the 84 spaces contest. This is an enjoyable, playable three-handed game and that is a very rare thing. I feel that the innovative shifting alliances rule will revitalize the three-handed genre.
I really like this game. If a King promotion is desired, perhaps a mW2F2cK allowing more mobitity with the stipulation that the 2-square move couldn't cross check (like castling). This would be worth having as the promoted King could get out of a dangerous position quicker, but most mating positions would still be the same. Let's take a look at promotions: Knight is a two atom piece that promotes to a five atom piece--this is the strongest promotion and a good thing -- the 9x9 board weakens the Kinght vs the Bishop and the stronger promotion rebalances the eqaution. Bishop is a two atom piece that promotes to a four atom piece, as is the Camel; the Rook is a three atom piece that promotes to a five atom piece. These promotions are of appoximately equal value. The Silver (FfW) is worth maybe 1 1/3 or so atoms and promotes to a three atom piece, clearly a a bigger gain than Bishop, Rook, or Camel, but a lessar gain than Knight. The Pawn is harder to evaluate -- it can promote in two steps vs five in FIDE but does not promote to a decisive piece, so FIDE's 2/3 atom is probably a good guess. The Gold (WfF) is worth 1 2/3 atoms, so this is the weakest promotion--but Pawn promotions collectively can add a lot of power.
This is worth an excellent because the concept's elegant simplicity is applicable to virtually any variant (though I wouldn't want to apply it to a game slower than FIDE Chess--Ready Shogi would be interesting but would take forever to play). The ready concept is particlary meritorious in games that are faster and more tactical than FIDE Chess -- slowing them down might give them a strategic/tactical balance like FIDE whiler hasving a very different feel. Examples: Ready Tripunch Chess, Ready Tutti-Fruiti Chess, Ready Progressive Chess. This game also works with thematic Kings, which personally I really prefer (when playable) from an esthetic standpoint.
Daniel, Thank you for finding the bug in the ZRF (it actaully affected the SuperChancellorRider). I have subbitted a corrected zrf to the CV pages.
Let me try a more thoughough analysis:<p>
Kings and Pawns neither gain nor give relay powers and neither lose nor take anti-relay powers. Therefor a 'piece' in the following analyis is an non-King, non-Pawn piece.<p>
1. There is a set of move types defined for the game. Purely for discussion, let's assume that we are dealing with an FIDE-like variant and the move types are Rook, Bishop, and Knight.<p>
2. A piece has <i>intrinsic</i> moves: these are the move types which the piece is allowed to make, ignoring any relay effects. (The Rook's instinsic move is the Rook move; the Queen's intrinsic moves are the Rook and Bishop moves.)<p>
3. A piece has <i>extrinsic</i> moves: these are the move types defined for the game that the piece does not have, ignoring any relay effects. (The Rook's extrinsic moves are the Bishop and Knight moves; the Queen's extrinsic move is the Knight move.)<p>
4. A effect which causes a piece to temporarily gain the ability to make an extrinsic move is a <i>relay</i>. An effect which causes a piece to temporarily lose th ability to make an intrinsic move is an <i>anti-relay</i>.<p>
5. Relay and anti-relay effects are non-transitive: an effect from piece A to piece B does not alter the effect from piece B to piece C.<p>
6. An extrinic move gained by a relay is not removed by a concurrent anti-relay. An instrinsic move removed by an anti-realy is not restored by a concurrent relay.<p>
7. A piece <i>observes</i> another piece if it has an intrinsic move to the other piece's square. Relays, anti-relays, and check are disregarded--only the line of sight matters. (A Rook on c3 sees a Knight on c6 if c4 and c5 are empty, whether or not the Rook could actually make the move.)<p>
8. The piece which gains or loses movement abilities is the target, the piece which causes the gain or loss of movement abitiities is the source.<p>
9. If the observer is the source, this is a <i>direct</i> effect. If the observer is the target, this is an <i>indirect</i> effect.<p>
10. An effect is intrinsic if the movement abitity added to or taken away from the target is an intrinsic move of the source; an efect is extreinsic if the movement abilty added or taken away is extrinsic to the source.<p>
11. An effect is <i>friendly</i> if it only applies to targets belonging to the same army as the source, <i>enemy</i> if it only applies to targets in the other army, and <i>bilateral</i> if it applies to targets of both sides equally.<p>
12. An effect can be fully specified by in order:<br>
a. direct or indirect (direct assumed if not stated)<br>
b. instinsic or extrinsic (instinsic assumed if not stated)<br>
c. friendly, enemy, or bilateral (friendly assumed for relays, enemy assumed for anti-relays)<br>
d. relay or anti-relay<p>
So for example the game I mentioned earlier is Indirect Extrinsic Anti-Relay Grand Chess. This is a variant of Grand Chess where a piece which sees an enemy piece loses any intinsic movement abilities it has that the enemy piece does not have.<p>
I am considering working up a ZRF for Relay/Indirect Extrinsic Anti-relay Tutti-Fruiti chess.
To extend Tony's analysis somewhat: Let's limit this dicussion to non-divergent pieces. We could, of course define a piece that makes a non-capturing Knight move, captures as a Bishop, and observes as a Rook, but relays are compicated enough. Piece below means non-royal, non-Pawn piece. There are four types of interaction: 1. Relay: the unshared move powers are added to the target piece. 2. Anti-relay: the shared move powers are taken away from the target piece. 3. Contra-relay: the unshared move powers are taken away from the target piece. Relay and Anti-relay can be combined. Anti-relay and contra-relay combined make an immobilizer. Relay and contra-relay would cancel out. The interaction may be: 1. Direct: the observed piece is the target. 2. Indirect: the observer piece is the target. Direct is the default. The interactions may apply to 1. Enemy: only enemy pieces affect each other. 2. Friendly: only friendly pieces affect each other. 3. Bilateral: all pieces are affected. Friendly is the default for relay, and enemy is the default for anti-relay and contra-relay. A piece might have both indirect and indirect effects, and mioght have different effects on friends and enemies. Effect are not recursive--in bilateral direct relay, for example, if a Knight relays a Knight move to a Rook the Rook does not relay Knight powers. Only powers the piece does not have intrinsically can be added, only intrinsic powers can be taken away. So in friendly direct relay, enemy direct anti-relay, if a Queen is observed by both a friendly Bishop and an enemy Bishop, the enemy Bishop takes away the Queen's Bishop move and the friendly Bishop cannot add it back. I have hacked together a ZRF for my first game in this genre. It is Enemy Indirect Anti-relay Grand Chess. This is a strange but playable game. A piece can only capture another piece if they share a move type by using a shared move type (Queen can capture a Rook with a Rook move but not a Bishop move). Attacking a piece with a move you can't use to capture results in the loss of that move type. Interesting levelling effect--a Knight can move into the path of a Queen and the Queen is immobilized. I am considering adding friendly direct relay to the game.
Tony, Thank you for your comments--you've given me food for thought. I was thinking of using Grand Chess rather than FIDE chess as the basis--the extra combo pieces will slow things down, but Grand is faster than FIDE. I also like the symmetry of move types that results from using all the combos. But a FIDE based game would certainly be playable. One variant: friendly pieces add, enemy pieces take away. Another variant: enemy pieces add, friendly pieces take away. This will be strange and it will be hard to get an attack going--say you pin an enemy Knight with your Rook--his Knight is now a temporary Chancellor and will capture your Rook! Pinning the Knight with your Queen is worse.
A game idea for comment: Instead of pieces giving the ability to move, as in Relay Chess, have pieces take away movement ability. For this example we will assume a game with FIDE pieces plus Chancellor(RN) and Cardinal(BN): Kings and pawns are unaffected, neither losing nor taking away movement powers. A piece may not make a Rook move if it is attacked/defended by another piece using that piece's Rook move. A piece may not make a Bishop move if it attacked/defended by another piece using that piece's Bishop move. A piece may not make a Knight move if it attacked/defended by another piece using that piece's Knight move. Attack and defense are calculated non-recursively. Thus if there are Rooks on b3 and b4, they are immobile--the immobility of R(b4) does not make it not attack/defend R(b3) and allow R(b3) to move. Attack and defense are calculated without regard to check. In the example above, R(b3) still can't move even if R(b4) is pinned. The obvious variants are applying anti-relay rules only to attack or only to defense.
I have playtested this game extensively in the course of judging Group A. The rules make it sound like a cute game and it is--but it has surprising depth. I will be giving more detail after the judging is complete, but I really wanted to recommend this fine game.
Cincinnati-style Kriegspiel should be playable by different armies--the rules specify that only pawn/piece is announced for a capture, not which piece. The CWDA promotion rule needs to be modified to allow pawn promotion only to pieces in one's own army--otherwise you would have to know what army the other player is using to know your promotion choices. (This weakens the Colorbound Clobberers a bit in the endgame--the CC's often promote a pawn to the other side's Queen piece.) Check announcements need consideration--what does the referee say if the player is checked by a Camel? This is a Knightish type check, but not on the same squares as would be indicated by 'check by Knight'. A check from a Half-Duck three sqaures away may still be 'on the file', but the player's legal moves are different than if the same check were by a Rook or Queen (interposing is useless, but retreating on the file may work.) Perhaps the best check announcement rule for KWDA is simply to announce 'check' with no directional indication.
Nicholas,<p>
Once again, you <i>say</i> you are not trying to insult anyone but your actual writings tell a different story:<p>
' . . . Zillions might be good for those people who are to dumb to do any of these, but I can't really see any other reason to resort to it.'<p>
Zillions is my primary design tool--therefor you are asserting that I am dumb. You are also making the same assertion about some more gifted game designers than I who make the same choice. Now had you written:<p>
'Zillions is very flawed and those who use it for designing games would get better results if they used math . . .' <p>
you would have expressed the same opinion about the software without expressing an opinion about other game designers--and though I would not agree with you, I would not take offense.<p>
I would strongly advise you to address your fellow designers in repectful terms--you will get a much better reaction to your ideas.
Nicholas, Could you please express your (often quite accurate) comments in a less insulting fashion? If you had actually read my comment instead of just observing the word 'Zillions' and dismissing my idea (and me) out of hand, you would have seen that I am equally concerned with playability by humans. If Zillions can't be programmed to play something legally (as opposed to playing it well), generally there are playablity issues for humans as well. I can't visualize the Nebula rules on the board as you have them now--I'm sure I am not unique in this respect. Even if you think my observation is entirely erroneous, you could express yourself in less abrasive, attacking language: why don't you?
With regard to the Nebula movement limitation, I believe it would be better if the enemy Nebula's move were considered without the limitation (as if it were a Rook).
This non-recursive rule simplifies the Zillions implementation and human players' thinking. A good example is found in the check rules of <a href=http://www.chessvariants.com/large.dir/british.html>British Chess</a>.
A really fine game concept. I can't help but wonder how well Attaturk Lag Chess would play.
Antoine, I agree that that such endgames are just fine -- many alternatives are equally playable but the key thing is choosing which set of playable alternatives suits your conception of what you want the game to be. I might have chosen differently, but I believe your are designing an excellent game.
Antoine, Your'e welcome. I find your proposed flipping rule quite interesting, though the one you had is also playable. I don't know if the modified cube rule is really needed in the opening and middlegame. In general, hogging the pocket by putting a piece there and leaving it for 20 turns is self-defeating, anyway. But there is one type of endgame I would urge you to consider: You have King and two Windmills vs. my King, two Bishops, and Knight. At the moment, your Windmills are not adjacent to anything. If the pocket is empty and there is no cube rule or you have the cube, you can use the pocket to move your Windmills. If there is a cube rule and I have the cube, your Windmills are immobile if I can keep your King away from them. If there is no cube rule and it's my move I can immobilize your Windmills by putting the Knight in the pocket and leaving it there. Do you want this type of endgame? I have a set of rules about the pocket you might want to consider: 1. If the pocket is empty either player may move a piece into it except as provided by rule 5. 2. When a piece has been in the pocket for three turns, its owner must move the piece out of the pocket on the next turn. 3. If the player is in check when rule 2 applies and he can relieve the check by moving the piece out of the pocket, he must do so. 4. If the player is in check when rule 2 applies and he can't relieve the check by moving the piece out of the pocket, the player makes any move that relieves the check and must move the piece out of the pocket on his next turn. 5. When a player moves a piece out of the pocket, he may not move this or another piece into the pocket until the pocket has been empty for three turns or the opponent has moved a piece into and out of the pocket. Three turns is a guess, you will want to experiment.
(I inavertently posted my comment to the wrong thread.)
I am impressed with the overall level of submissions in this contest. Designing a good small variant is <i>much</i> harder than designing a good large variant, and designing a good large variant isn't exactly easy.
I like the overall flavor of this game and am looking forward to your revisions. Personally, I don't care for the Coordinator. Pehaps the last pawn should instead promote to a piece its owner has lost (any time after the capture of the next-to-last pawn, counts as a move)--maybe you could extend this to the last two pawns, at the players option--this strengthens the pawn by making capturing them self-defeating beyond a certain point.
This game deserves an Excellent for the concept, but a small reworking might be nessessary. Some limitation on hogging the pocket seems needed--perhaps the cube variant is some help, but I would suggest that the pocketed piece be immune from capture for only a limited time (2 or 3 turns perhaps, playtesting would be required to determine the limit). After the limit is up, opponent can move to an occupied pocket and capture. I don't think that pawn pocketing variant is a good idea in view of the pocket hogging issue. I would also suggest this variant about flipping. A piece in the pocket is affected by flipping, but a move to or from the pocket doesn't cause filpping.
Actually, .zsg files are plain text and are not covered by licenses, any more than the data files created by a word processor. The text is mainly the move list in full algebraic notation with a small amount of easily ignored bookeping data. I would urge anyone who wants to examine these saved games to download the files even if you don't currently own Zillions--you will be able to read them.
Very well done page! The Rookies will almost always win the endgame between these armies, the challenge is getting there. Something as seemingly small as a single advanced Pawn proved decisive in this game--just like FIDE Chess. How different and yet how the same. There needs to be an evaluation well above Excellent for CWDA.
I have the Excelsior files I need. Thank you to Antoine Fourierre and Dan Troyka for your prompt responses.
Does anyone have image files for the Excelsior ZRF? They are missing from the zip on the Excelsior page. I have ZRF's for evwery other game in Group A and it might put the game at an unfair disadvantage in the judging, since I have used Zillions for playtesting all the other games.
I have changed my mind about this. Overstepping the time limit should lose no matter what the positon on the board is (excepting the case where the game has actally ended by checkmate, etc. but the player didn't stop his clock). The reasoning is simple--the opponent of the violator observed the time limit. If he had also violated the limit, he might well have found better moves. How much better, who can say? Certainly it is possible he could have played enough better to change a loss into a win.
I believe the list of insufficent force draws should be limited to those cases where neither side can win with the game played as a helpmate--no illegal moves, but both sides cooperating to mate one side. This would clearly be a manageably-sized list that wouldn't change after it was drafted--the list in the laws is incomplete but probably not by a lot.
<p>
The list in law 10.4 should be extended to these positions and law 10.5 should be amended to have a draw when a player exceeds the time limit if the opponents pieces would be on list as drawn vs a bare King. The exact forces the time-limit violator has shouldn't matter--why should a player with King vs King and Knight get a draw while a player with King and Rook vs King and Knight gets a loss?
<p>
This should still be a mangable level of complexity but would be more equitable.
Unless triple repetition or the fifty-move rule applies, White loses if he exceeds the time limit in this position, even though for a decent player this is a winning position. The only case where exceeding the time limit is a draw is if the opponent has a bare King--the case when the opponent couldn't win no matter how badly the other player plays. In the positon you gave you should win but could lose if you played very, very badly--so exceeding the time limit is a loss. If you are in bad time trouble but haven't yet gone over the limit, it might be a good idea to offer a draw--the opponent may well accept since he will lose if you are able to make the winning moves quickly enough. He might prefer to take the sure half point form a lost postion than gamble on you going over.
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