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Building a Tridimensional Chess Board. Missing description[All Comments] [Add Comment or Rating]

Taters Pete wrote on Thu, Mar 3, 2022 06:08 PM UTC:

The most difficult part in making a tri dimensional chess board, is ensuring each main board overlaps the board below it by exactly a half, if you intend to use any of the main stream rule sets.
I play the World Tri Dimensional Chess Federation rules (http://w3dcf.com/information/laws) as they are more intuitive for a Western 2D chess player and lack the one sided 'higher board' rule of Andrew Bartmess' Federation Standard rules.

dethstalker wrote on Sun, Mar 19, 2006 10:47 PM UTC:Good ★★★★

I built a full scale chess game many years ago. I went to a steel fab company and had them use a plasma torch cut the frame out os a 1/2 thick steel slab. the boards I made out of plexyglass and i used clear blue paint to made the checkered board. For the chess peaces I bought a complete set of both the next gen crew and the orginal crew made from puter and had the next gen crew coated in gold. it is a very awesome game and a blast to play. if anyone wants to see it, send me a request at [email protected] and i will send you a picture of it. laters, dethstalker

Ian Hudson wrote on Sat, Feb 4, 2006 06:21 PM UTC:Good ★★★★

Your description of the construction of the set is good for the most part.
Because there are no pictures on your site of the actual star trek board,
I have provided a link for anyone interested in constructing their own
boards.

http://private.addcom.de/meder/3dschach/galerie/

Hawk 13 wrote on Thu, Jan 5, 2006 04:35 AM UTC:Good ★★★★

These instructions are good but like others said you need to show pictures of the board you made plus the board from Star Trek to get our own ides.

wwww wrote on Tue, Dec 20, 2005 04:28 PM UTC:Poor ★

hard to follow, no pictures

Anonymous wrote on Thu, Jun 2, 2005 01:04 PM UTC:Poor ★

hard to follow no pictures no workshop genouis show pictures of each step and I can do it but I need reference!

Brenna Sharp wrote on Sun, Aug 29, 2004 01:38 AM UTC:Excellent ★★★★★

I've wanted one for years and now can seriously contemplate building one.

What was stopping me was knowing just what it was supposed to look like
and whether the 'out boards' really were supposed to move and if so how
many could and to where.

The how-to looks reasonably clear and re-create-able.

Thank you for the info!

Trekie boy wrote on Sat, Jul 24, 2004 09:44 PM UTC:Good ★★★★

I had a bit of trouble on the base but the material is great. The board on Charlie X (and episode with tri dementional chess) is red and clear for the main board and white and clear for the add on boards (the verticla ones). that is just a suggestion to anyone who reads this. Thanks it really works!

Anonymous wrote on Thu, May 27, 2004 01:25 PM UTC:Poor ★

im no work shop genious. i dont know how to do all this stuff.i only have cardboard and paper.

Anonymous wrote on Mon, May 24, 2004 11:30 PM UTC:Good ★★★★

can you explain how a board moves in more detail

Tri-D Chess Player wrote on Tue, May 4, 2004 07:56 PM UTC:Excellent ★★★★★

Just GREAT!

Live Long And Prosper :) \\//

Jim wrote on Mon, Feb 10, 2003 01:38 AM UTC:Excellent ★★★★★

Thanks for the inspiration, David. And to Brian Lippincott as well. I built two for Christmas (on request) and got rave reviews! I'm working on the third. I used Brian's suggestion of plexiglass boards. The first set was blue w/black for the base and I had the squares sandblasted into it. For the second I went with smoked plexiglass and spray painted the patterns on the undersides. I went with Pentel pen barrels (similar to David's choice of Bics). I paid a premium for the materials and had to have all the cutting, drilling, edge buffing, and sandblasting work done for me at premium labor rates, so I had nearly $150 in the first one! For the second one I bought odd-lot materials and lots extra and had it all cut once they had the set-ups. I just put the pics of it on eBay and will put a third together if it sells! Thanks again! Anyone interested can contact me at [email protected].

dave wrote on Thu, Oct 17, 2002 03:10 PM UTC:Excellent ★★★★★

I love your site. But I have one suggestion...
Instead of using bic pens and bolts you can use K’NEX pieces.
(if you dont know what that is go to toys r us)

Ben Good wrote on Wed, Sep 11, 2002 02:27 AM UTC:

re: lippincott's comments: i'm definitely interested in seeing pics of this. chessvariants.com has its own photo section, if you go to the main index the link for the photo index is towards the bottom. you can contact on of the editors about what to do with your pics. btw, i assume all your dimensions are really in inches, not in feet as you indicated.

Brian Lippincott wrote on Wed, Sep 11, 2002 02:11 AM UTC:Good ★★★★

It was a start for some Ideas. I travel in the offshore industry so my
board must be as collapsable as possible. I was also wanting the nicest
board I could build. I used plexi-glass for the boards, making the main
levels 7' (1 1/2' squares with a 1/2' border) allowing the attack board
holes to be drilled exactly in the corners, thus, lining up the squares
vertially on the attack boards. My support frame is made of 1/2' o.d.
steel tubing, all welded, with 1/8' thick tabs for the boards. They are
bolted on the tabs with 1/4'x20 allen head bolts, which screw into
threaded holes in the center on the boards. The same goes for the attack
boards, but instead of bolts I threaded 3 1/2' long 1/4' steel rods at one
end, and welded on a washer for a shoulder. I then machined the other ends
to precisely fit the 3/16' dia. hole in the main boards. My base is a
steel weed-wacker blade with a threaded and machined hub welded on. I
spray-painted my squares and frame black. 
Yes, I am a machinist with his own lathe, mill, welder, torches, etc.
However I still believe anyone who wants to can build a tri-level chess
set with common materials. Mine were all laying around in my garage, so I
spent almost nothing.  I still bought cheap chess pieces and filled them
with silicone sealer, then put a nut in the bottom of each piece for added
weight, finished filling with silicone, and finally set them right-side-up
on a sheet of felt, letting the silicone sealant glue them to itself.
Later I just 'cut them out' with scissors. 
  Any ideas where I might post pictures of this set? If anyone wants more
ideas how to construct a board WITHOUT special machine shop tools, e-mail
me at: [email protected]

Anonymous wrote on Wed, Sep 4, 2002 11:29 AM UTC:

To the previous rater:
Look at the bottom of the page for a link to rules for Star Trek 3D chess.

Anonymous wrote on Wed, Sep 4, 2002 05:46 AM UTC:Good ★★★★

This is good whould be better with Game Rules