[ Help | Earliest Comments | Latest Comments ][ List All Subjects of Discussion | Create New Subject of Discussion ][ List Latest Comments Only For Pages | Games | Rated Pages | Rated Games | Subjects of Discussion ]Comments/Ratings for a Single Item ⇩Latest ⇩Later ⇩Reverse Order⇧ Earlier Dragonchess. A three-dimensional fantasy variant. (12x8x3, Cells: 288) (Recognized!)[All Comments] [Add Comment or Rating]Gary Gygax wrote on 2007-05-04 UTCWell darn! I must have imagined inventing the game then. Please tell your grandfather that I pity him having to play the game that he created...which you rate as 'Poor.' LOL! Gary dallas wrote on 2007-04-29 UTCPoor ★dragon chess wes not invented by you enless it is a didderent game by=ut it cant be because dragon chess is ® so you did not invent is brcause i play it every day and it was invented by my granpa James Spratt wrote on 2006-11-16 UTCHi, DragonMaster: You can make heat-free rubber molds of considerable durability for many repeated castings out of simple clear silicon window-caulking, available in tubes in most hardware centers, for next to nothing. You can also use fiberglass resin, sold in small amounts, mixed with about 50% by volume inert filler, such as plaster or sand, colored with a bit of carpenter's chalk, for the castings, also for minimum expense. A lot depends on the complexity of the form of your models; simple rather conical forms are easiest, but once you catch on how to make a 2-piece mold, your patterns can become much more intricate, taller, etc. Build the silicon up on your model in thin coats, letting air-dry between, until it's maybe 1/8' thick all over, remove it from the original like a sock, inside-out-wise, and there's a simple mold. You can paint the resin castings with model car paints. TheDragonMaster wrote on 2006-11-12 UTCGood ★★★★Just found the game recently, been playing the version offered on this site. It seems like a lot of fun, but have only been able to play against myself. Went looking for a set, figured someone would have constructed a set and offered it up for sale by this time, but no luck. I'm in the middle of constructing my own set right now. Just found a DIY 3D Chess Board on Instructables. Picked up some Shapelock (www.ShapeLock.com) to sculpt the pieces myself. I've seen that others have used everything from Heroscape to DnD miniatures, but I don't care much for the look provided. The nice thing about shapelock is that if I decide that I don't like the look I can just take a hair dryer to the piece in question and rescupt it. Though I don't quite know what I will do about the final version. I would like to create a mold of the pieces, but have to be carefull which material I make it out of, because if I use something that produces heat, I will end up melting the piece down before I get a proper mold. Having made the mold I could consievably make it out of any moldable material. That being done, I can get the pieces made with greater ease, I'm sure that some of my friends would like the to have a set of their own. Anonymous wrote on 2006-02-13 UTCExcellent ★★★★★I love this. I have been looking for this game for years. Thank you Ken wrote on 2005-06-16 UTCGood ★★★★I did like the way there were many new rules for this game. However I give it a rating of good because this is the most confusing rulebook I have ever read. I wasn't able to understand several pieces that were introduced. Goonie wrote on 2004-11-26 UTCExcellent ★★★★★In the 'first try' game, it should read 44) W2e4 instead of P2e4. Otherwise, 63)... UxW2e4 would not be possible. Gary Gygax wrote on 2003-06-28 UTCJust for general information: My website is back online, but it is not fully operational as yet. I plan to have both the X-Factor Chess game and the 21st Century Chess Variants manuscripts available there again. The URL is: www.egarygygax.com Regards, Gary Dungeon_Master wrote on 2003-06-28 UTCGood ★★★★The old Gary Gygax website is no more...so the dragonchess program his site had (in my opinion FAR superior to the zillions of games version) cannot be downloaded there. I have posted the ZIP file of that game on my website, and you can download it there if you like. <a target=_blank href='http://www.dndrules.com'>http://www.dndrules.com</a> is the URL. You do have to be a registered user, but it is free. I will also be making available a document that will cover the basics of dragonchess and if I get enough interest, I may even organize an online tournament. Check out the site if you like, and you're always welcome there. greenpeas wrote on 2003-06-12 UTCDoes anybody know where to track down a way to play this online now? (other than the zillions implementation) Victor Amuro wrote on 2003-06-10 UTCGood ★★★★About 16 years back I played this chessvariant with a friend. He came across the rules in a Dragonmagazine. For some unclear reason we only played it several times although we liked the game very much. From that time on I always had in my mind to make my own boards an carve my own wooden pieces. It seems to me that the character of the game is more different from normall chess then you can tell on first sight. The more powerfull pieces are played much earlier than in normall chess. It's risky to move you queen in an first stage of the opening in normall chess, not so here. This is maybe at the same time one of the weaker points of dragonchess. I got the feeling (but I'm not be able to prove cause I played not enough games to be sure)that the game is a little unbalanced. The first player (gold)has a big advantage to move first, more than in normal chess. No only can he/she take on his first move a piece for free (Rx1a7 with the threat Rx2a8 by CAF) but forces scarlet to take defencive steps with R1d4. Maybe a really strong Dchess computerprogram will never loose with gold and the best thing the scarlet player can hope for is to play for a draw and make the best of some weaker moves of his opponent to win the game. But this didn't stop me to finaly fullfill a promise. Two months back I started to make my first wooden dragonchesspieces. It will take some time to finish a complete set and I reckon it will take about a year to become a proud owner of a complete game (at the moment I got 28 pieces). Hopefully at that time there are still players around who are willing to play the game (by mail). Regards Victor Amuro Ditto wrote on 2003-05-15 UTCExcellent ★★★★★I created my own board for this game several years ago, and a friend and me became very good at it ... games between the two of us could go for hours ... (and it wasn't any problems double-checking moves!!) hehe It's a VERY complicated game ... and takes a while to learn, but is a load of fun to play. I use Ral Partha miniatures for my pieces ... (gotta be careful of those big, bulky dragons, though). My suggestion: 2' squares ... I used 1.5' and space is a little tight for the larger, airborne pieces ... I also used 1/2' plywood, and 1/4' rerod for the supports. A couple washers and nuts on the rerod to secure each board, and wooden 'foot' for levelling and stabilization, and this sucker goes anywhere!! (I took it camping once, and set it up on rough, uneven ground ... worked like a charm . hehe) As for the the fixes to the 'problmes' mentioned .. I just wanted to offer my 2 cents: don't fix them. I'll go through the fixes, and the problems with each fix: 'the Dragon problem' The 'Fix': no orthogonal movement for the Dragon. The problem this causes: Weak spot at: 1g2 and 1g7 ... Consider these moves: 1) 1k1-1i4 ... 2) 1i4-1g7 I take either a Mage or Paladin for a Griffon ... done deal. Oh, and as a note ... in all the games I've played, anyone who started off with a 'Dragon Rampage' ... has lost the game .. every time ... ;) 'the Dwarf Problem' Fix: Change the move on the middle board to move backward's, not sideways. I don't have a real pickle with this one .. but for the record: In the dozens of games I've played: The dwarves have NEVER reached the back rank ... and besides .. they can still threaten above them ... so they're still a threat ... 'the Sylph Problem' Fix: Change the startup of all the pieces ... Don't do this .... first off, the Sylphs and Dwarves are *supposed* to start on opposing squares, not above/below each other, secondly you've totally exposed holes in the defences which are so much easier to work on ... On the new grid, take a close look at: 1f3 -> Paladin = checkmate 1f2 -> Griffin = Cleric or Mage 2b2, 2d2, 2f2, 2h2, 2j2, 2l2 -> weaker than before, no sylph/dwarf protection now you have to realy completely on: 2b2 -> Hero at 2c1, Basilisk at 3b1 2d2 -> Hero at 2c1 (double shift) ;), Cleric at 2e1 2f2 -> ... well, ok, this one's *more* protected .. ;p 2h2 -> Thief, Mage, Paladin (Mage and Paladin are pretty big pieces to be protecting warrior!!) 2j2 -> Thief at 2i1, Basilisk at 3j1 2l2 -> Oliphant at 2l1!!! This guys weak, and no way to get to it easily!! I don't know .. maybe I'm just old-fashioned ... hehe Roachman wrote on 2003-04-09 UTCExcellent ★★★★★Played it a couple of times. I ordered all my pieces from Ral Partha. It takes a while to play a game. Mine average about 3 hours due to double checking the moves. Not many people play and it's hard to get a game in. Greyskull wrote on 2003-01-31 UTCExcellent ★★★★★I like his game, but I have a question: Did anyone ever create game pieces specifically for this game? Greyskull Anonymous wrote on 2000-12-07 UTCExcellent ★★★★★I had a friend in college that had a 3d chess game. He built it and played it acc to rules from a magazine. It was a beautifull set, wood frame, etched glass boards, and hand painted pewter figurines. I've been looking for some time for a copy of this information for some time, and I was thrilled to find your site with almost everything I need right there. I'm wondering though...do you happen to have the diagrams for building the set? Of course, I'm assuming those diagrams were actually in the magazine and that he didn't come up with the board setup himself. Anonymous wrote on 2001-03-08 UTCExcellent ★★★★★There weren't any real instructions in the magazine just some suggestions, if I remember correctly. I think there was a suggested miniatures list, though. I'm thinking of making my own set, also. I will make the boards out of Plexiglas, clear for the top, transparent green for the middle, and red for the bottom (trans or not, it's on the bottom). I plan to use transparent contact paper for the alternating squares, blue on top, orange (which should make a decent brown when on the green board), and black on the bottom (if I can't find black, I'll just use some limo black window tint sheets). The hard part is the miniatures. You'll have to combine different scale miniatures, since some figures would be much to large or small if they were the same scale. You want your Oliphant and Dragon to be roughly the same size as the humanoid figures, so they will fit in the squares. The size of the board I am designing will be 19' x 13'. This allows 1' squares, and an extra 1/2' border. I haven't decided what to use to support the boards and keep them apart, but it will most likely be allthread rods and bolts, with some sort of fineal on the top, likely lamp hardware... Anonymous wrote on 2002-02-16 UTCExcellent ★★★★★Great game Anonymous wrote on 2002-09-30 UTCExcellent ★★★★★ 18 comments displayed⇩Latest ⇩Later ⇩Reverse Order⇧ EarlierPermalink to the exact comments currently displayed.